Cold War Encounter

The 3 1/2 hour train journey north to Helsinki, Finland would be anything but normal. We board the train at the St. Petersburg train station which is dedicated to train travel to Finland. As the train departs, an announcement tells all passengers to return to their seats. The Border Police are now onboard checking everyone for correct documentation in order to leave the country. They take their time and systematically compare pictures and visas. Back and forth. Look at the passport picture, and compare to your face. These guys look serious and one wouldn't want to cross them. The train crosses the heavily treed terrain and with little evidence of habitation. You think back to the days when infiltration by undercover agents of foreign governments over the Russian border during the second World War and the Cold War were documented. Right on cue, right out of a B movie, the train stops at a small station and the Border Patrol disembark. Five minutes later an announcement that we have crossed the border and the train comes to another stop. It is now boarded by Finish officials who are much more friendly and welcoming despite guns and tasers attached to their belts.

Helsinki, a city of about 600,000 is a delight, especially after having visited the mega cities of Moscow and St Petersburg. We are told that Finland has been ranked by the UN as the happiest population in the world and certainly everyone seems so relaxed and welcoming. Definitely a charming and calm place to explore. I only wish I had more time to take more of it in.

Finally we can do what we want, when we want to do it. And our first outing takes us back out of the country. Go figure. A two hour ferry, crossing the Gulf of Finland to Estonia and the medieval city of Tallinn. This place oozes history and charm. Cobbled streets, hideaways, hidden alleyways and of course a good old European Town Square for good measure. Throw in a church or two with some local cuisine and drink and voila, a new treasure found. Shopping can actually be fun when you find unique items not available anywhere else.

The following day we are met by an old friend who lives in Finland and has volunteered to show us around. After exploring the local fish market, we head out of the city and take in the landscape, woods and lakes. The Fins really take their nature seriously. It is a lovely country and a road trip to Scandinavia is definitely something to consider.

Alas it is time to come back to reality. Our 4:30 wake up call means it will be a long day. I hope you have enjoyed tagging along and watch for my next Blog over the course of the next couple of months. Cheers!!

Peterhof Palace and the River Neva

Peterhof Palace is located about an hours drive southwest of St. Petersburg. Simply amazing. To my mind it is like Versailles in Paris on steroids. Commissioned by Peter the Great and completed in 1829, this extravaganza of which I had never heard of up until a couple of weeks ago, is astonishing. Another exorbitant residence of a palatial grandeur with more gold decorated ball rooms, chandeliers, late 18th and early 19th century furnishings and paintings too numerous to mention. However there is one more feature which sets this estate apart. The 300 acre Peterhof Park with it's 37 guilded statues and 168 fountains is one of a kind. We marvel at spouting water canons, cascading around ornate statues, and hurry to take in as many of them as possible. All of the fountains to this day operate by the force of gravity. There are no pumps and most of the original pipes are still in use today. We could have spent the day here but have to get back for another outing.

We have been discovering this unique city by foot but this afternoon it is to be a canal tour, which is next on the itinerary. I always love going through the city centres by boat and this is no exception. Whether it be Amsterdam or Venice, the historical St. Petersburg has it's own special feel to it. We navigate many of the canals and the River Neva as we pass beneath some of the 320 bridges. Your eyes dart back and forth as another palace is passed or a park is encountered. More monuments and gardens. Another church and another canal bridge passed under. A jostling of river boats full of tourists and locals alike on a bright, warm sunny September afternoon. Just a wonderful day which will be remembered for years to come.